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HOW TO DO A KNOCKDOWN (CALIFORNIA KNOCKDOWN) TEXTURE    PAGE 1 OF 2

 

 What you will need (Tools, Materials)

Hopper Gun: Make sure to get one with an air adjusting valve (Like shown in picture)

   

The hopper gun itself comes with this adjustable wheel deal that has different size holes. Forget about them holes, set it to one of the medium to large size holes and leave it alone. You can do all your fine tuning with the air adjusting valve. For bigger goobers, you use less air, For smaller goobers, more air.

    

Air compressor and air hose: Nothing fancy, you don't need a big monster. Any small air compressor will do the trick. Borrow, rent or buy.

I usually set my pressure to about 100 pounds. By the time I adjust it at the hopper, I'm probably pushing maybe 30 or 40 pounds.

   

Mud: Roughly 1 bucket of all purpose mud per room depending on how thick or thin you want your texture.

 

Knock down Knives: Just regular drywall taping knives. It's nice to have an assortment of different sizes in case you need to get into some tight spots. I'm using a wide knockdown knife but a 12 inch knife will do. I made this page back in 1998, there are some really cool knockdown knives that have came out since then. You might want to try a rubber  squeegee knockdown knife. With a squeegee knife you can knock down a little sooner then you can with a regular metal knockdown knife. I still prefer the old school metal knife.

     

Step 1: Sand

Using a sanding pole work your way around the room sanding off any edges, goobers, lines.

I like the new round sander made by

 

Not only does it remove more material faster, It really makes your joints flat.

A regular square sander might make a butt joint smooth but it will leave it humped.

A medium sanding sponge works great for your angles, corners and detail work.

 

 

To prime or not to prime???

I get a lot of e-mails about when to prime. There might be a site out there that says to prime before you do the texture. You might have bought some kind of premixed texture that says on the bag to prime 1st. The guy at the superstore might have told you to prime 1st. Any Drywall professional will tell you not to prime until after the texture.

If you really want to prime it 1st, It won't hurt anything, I have found that the mud sucks into the unprimed sheet rock better and you can start knocking down a little sooner.

Step 2: Mix Your Mud

You can use pretty much any kind of mud (Joint Compound) here. "All purpose" is great but if you have some extra "Topping" left over from when your coated your job, you can use that up as well. Don't use hot mud. You don't need the premixed texture stuff from the superstore. Nothing with any sand or grit, just plain old mud works the best.

Mix up your mud using a mud masher (Stomper) or an electric drill with a paddle. Add as much water as you need to get the mud thin (Like soupy pancake batter or thick paint). Usually one box or bucket of joint compound will do one good sized room. If your using a new bucket you might have to take a scoop or two of mud out so there's room for some water. Thick mud will not work. For more about mud and how to mix it,  click this link All about Joint Compound

   

Here are 2 video's that might help, The one on the left shows you how to mix mud, your going to mix your mud much thinner (more water),  the one on the right will show you how thin the mud should be. Don't get confused. These video's have nothing to do with orange peel (you don't need a paint roller). They are just good video's to show how to mix and how thin the mud needs to be.

       

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