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HOW TO DO A "SLAPBRUSH KNOCKDOWN TEXTURE"  PAGE 1 OF 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a simple little knockdown texture. Also called "Palm Texture" or "Tiger Skin Texture" but most commonly it's called "Slapbrush/Knockdown".

What's great about this texture is that it's easy to do and you don't need an air compressor or hopper gun, just a slap brush and a roller.

Here is the room we are getting ready to texture. I'll show you how to do the 1st chunk.

Half an hour from now it will be beautiful

 

Tools

You will need a paint roller, a slapbrush and 1 pole. I like to use a 3/4" nap roller skin, you could use a 1/2" if you want.

The brush you can buy at any drywall supply store. You can go with a round single, double, Each kind of brush changes the look of the texture.

I prefer the regular old double header.

Here is a good place to get one   All-Wall.com

Also you can find a large variety of brushes here www.warehousebay.com

The Picture below shows what a new brush looks like (On the right). The picture on the left shows what the brush will look like after it's been used.(We will use the slapbrush without a pole for this texture)

  

Wipe down Knives: Just regular drywall taping knives. It's nice to have an assortment of different sizes in case you need to get into some tight spots. I am using a wide knockdown knife but a 12 inch knife will do. If you want a wide knife here is a good place to get one www.DryWallSchool.com/store.htm

   

Okay her we go  

Step 1: Sand

Using a sanding pole work your way around the room sanding off any edges, goobers, lines.

I like the new round sander made by

Not only does it remove more material faster, It really makes your joints flat.

A regular square sander might make a butt joint smooth but it will leave it humped.

A medium sanding sponge works great for your angles, corners and detail work.

 

 

To prime or not to prime???

I get a lot of e-mails asking about when to prime. Any Drywall professional will tell you not to prime until after the texture. It seems silly to prime, texture then prime again.

If you really want to prime it 1st, It won't hurt anything, it's your call of course.

If your doing an older painted room you can texture right over the paint. The joint compound will bond to the paint fine.

Step 2: Mix Your Mud

Mix up your mud using a stomper or an electric drill with a paddle. Add as much water you need to get the mud thin (Like Pancake Batter). Usually one box or bucket of joint compound will do one good sized room. For more about mud and how to mix it,  click the link below.

All about Joint Compound

Thinner mud will give you a thinner texture (Any bad spots or flaws will show through),Thicker mud will give you a thicker more forgiving texture (It will hide more flaws), This is your preference. Experiment a little 1st and decide how thick you want your texture to be.

   

This video will show how thin the mud should be

This video shows how to do a slapbrush ceiling

Step 3: Dip It, Shake It, Slide It (Good Song Title)

Dip your roller all the way into the mud, when you pull it out, shake it a little bit. Now slide it across the edge of the bucket. You want to end up with a nice roller full of mud but, you don't want it dripping all over the place. If you do this right, you won't have mud goobers flying all over the place.

   

Step 4: Roll 1st row

I would work with 4 to 6 feet sections. You don't want to bite off too big a chunk or the mud will dry out.

Starting in a corner (I'm starting at a door opening) roll out the mud until the roller is empty. Start up by the ceiling (try not to touch the ceiling) and roll down until you almost touch the floor. As you can see from the picture, one roller full will get you about 6 to 8 feet. If you allow the roller to go all the way down and touch the floor, you will pick up dirt (you don't want that). Stop just short of the floor.

 

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